I'm finally getting back on my surfboard and trying to get over my fears.
Some of you may be thinking, “What’s the big deal? What happened and why is this chick so scared?”
Trust me, I have asked myself this question a million times. I want to give you an insight on how I became terrified of the sport that I had loved, and how I recently learnt to love it again after the obstacles I had to face.
About 7 years ago, I was living in the Gold Coast and I LOVED to surf (even though I was terrible). My friends and I would try to get out for a paddle every couple of weeks whenever we had time. I finally progressed to green waves and eventually became confident to paddle out by myself. On one particular day, I was having a ripper session (that’s what I keep telling myself) and I was totally in the ‘zone’ when something unexpected happened.
Hi everyone, welcome to my new blog about being a 'wanna be' surf mum, skater mum and snowbaording mum! So many people have asked me, “Why would you take on this extra workload when you are already so busy? Who is going to read it? What do you know about writing a blog?”
Well, the simple answer is that I hope my life stories inspire you (in some way), and that they will motivate you to keep reading! Let me tell you why I wanted to share my story and research with you. I want to Surf, Skate and Snowboard, and I want you to join me.
The story so far….
I grew up in a small country town, 5-7 hours away from the nearest beach. Most of my summers were spent swimming in the river or dams. It was always an adventure to climb into the family van and head to the beach. I remember the sense of calm that would come over us as we drove over the hill and saw the vast blue and aqua colours of the ocean. The van windows would go down, “Footloose” would be turned on to a high volume, and my family would all belt out that tune (and every song that followed) with excitement! Leaping out of the car and jumping into the salty water always felt so cleansing… until you got dumped by a wave and ended up with a mouth full of salt water. I’m sure the locals could see the farm kids coming a mile away!
Then there was the excitement of people watching, feeling nervous but hoping to check out those cool, very cute surfer boys. Each time we went on these beachside holidays, I vowed that I would learn to surf and that I would be a surfer girl. Skip forward 30 years and I am still trying, but I’m on my way! So why become a surfer girl now? I have actually tried several times.