02 Feb What is it with your love and obsession with surfing? Everyone is different but here are some of mine.
What is it with the your love and obsession with surfing??? I’ve been getting this question a lot lately and I totally understand it. I used to ask my husband this question all the time. I mean, why on earth would you wake up at the crack of dawn, open the blinds and look at the wind? Then there was the early messaging with his other eager beaver surf buddies. I used to get so angry at him, “Please don’t do that, it’s driving me crazy!!!” or ,“turn your phone off, please!?”.
How things have changed, we now sleep with the blinds open and the first thing we ask each other is, “what is the wind doing?”. I’m now also setting my alarm for 5.30am surf checks and getting messages from my surf buddies ,“there’s waves, GET UP!!”. I think my husband is still in a little bit of shock and has a little chuckle at himself each time I’m out the door before him. I’m in serious catch up mode.
So, what is it with surfing and the obsession that goes with it? If you’re a surfer already, I’m pretty sure you understand this way more than I do and obviously it’s different for each person. I could go on for pages but these are my main reasons:
1) First and foremost it’s ‘FUN’!!! Don’t get me wrong, there are so many things that are so frustrating. For instance, paddling around for an hour and not really getting a good wave or getting stuck in the whitewash and getting smashed by wave after wave. But then you catch ‘the wave’ – the wave of the day! You jump up cleanly, you feel the rush as you go down the wave, the surge of water pushing the back of your board. This followed by the excitement of jumping over the back of the wave, feeling like a rock star and your blood pumping with adrenalin. When you get ‘that wave’ you’re so pumped and excited that you have to paddle back out and try it again.
2) It’s so good for you. There is so much exercise involved with surfing. With all of the paddling and jumping around your cardio-vascular system gets a huge workout and with this comes happy endorphins. Happy endorphins for me help improve my mood, sleep patterns, mental health and help reduce stress. Without these happy endorphins I’m not a very good mother or wife. It helps me stay balanced. Obviously being active and doing other activities can release the same endorphins, but for me surfing is at the top of my happy list (for exercise that is).
3) With life being so busy on many levels, I find surfing is the most amazing place to escape. There is no technology, there are no lists of things to do, my head slows down and it’s quiet. There is always someone to chat to but there are moments when you can just sit in the water, look at the horizon and just stare. I would call it my meditation time.
4) The ‘Stoke’. It’s this crazy feeling out in the surf where everyone is full of stoke. It doesn’t matter how old you are. When surfers are catching waves, there is this always someone making this ‘wahoo’ or ‘whoa’ sound. Surfers are like little kids, they run to get in the waves and they come out smiling from ear to ear. Seriously, the ‘stoke’ is contagious in a good way, what more can you ask for?
Ok there are some days when it’s not always rainbows and sunshine but most of the time there is ‘stoke’ in the air.
5) It is a huge challenge. Each time I head out for a surf I am mentally, physically and emotionally challenged. Some days I feel like I have been defeated, the ocean and my board have it in for me. Then I have those days when I come home ‘stoked’ and everything has come together. I either nailed my pop up on all waves or I rode the wave for a little longer. I can’t even begin to think how excited I will be when I can actually do something on a wave. Each time though, I know that I will have a good challenge ahead of myself.
So there you have it. Some of the main reasons I have fallen in love and slightly obsessed with surfing. Peta